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Titre : | What is the difference in bowstringing between a crimp grip position compared to a slope grip position among climbers? |
Auteurs : | Tim Schönberger ; Laure Vandervelde, Promoteur |
Type de document : | Travail de fin d'études |
Editeur : | Woluwe-Saint-Lambert : Haute École Léonard de Vinci, 2024 |
Format : | 34 p. / ill. en coul. |
Langues: | Français |
Index. décimale : | TFE - Kinésithérapie |
Descripteurs : |
HE Vinci Doigts ; Escalade (sport) ; Plaies et blessures |
Mots-clés: | Blessure à la poulie ; Rupture de poulie ; TBD ; A2 ; A3 pulley ; crimp grip ; slope grip |
Résumé : |
In climbing, most pulley injuries occur when using the crimp grip on small ledges, which
imposes a significant amount of bowstringing, especially on the A2 pulley. However, only one study has investigated the bowstring effect in vivo for both the crimp and slope grips, with no established reference values for either grip position. The aim of this experimental study was to assess bowstringing among 34 climbers during both grip positions. The participants were asked to pull on a 20 mm edge at intensities of 3 kg and 6 kg. Bowstring measurements were taken with a digital caliper at the A2 and A3 pulleys of the right index and middle fingers. Our results revealed a statistically significantly higher bowstring effect in the crimp grip compared to the slope grip for a same finger, same pulley, and same load, with an average increase of 59.5% for the index finger and 79.5% for the middle finger during the crimp position. The higher bowstringing due to the increase of load was only statistically significant in three cases. Consequently, climbers should exercise caution when relying solely on the crimp grip, particularly novice climbers, and the TBD values obtained from this study can serve as reference values in vivo for healthy climbers without pulley injuries. |
Accès : | Identifiez-vous avant d'accéder au document électronique |
Disponible en ligne : | Oui |
Département : | Kinésithérapie |
Documents numériques (1)
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TFE Schönberger, Tim Adobe Acrobat PDF |